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When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked high among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this culinary honour.